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fashion

Design

REBEL at the Design Museum

Went to see this fashion exhibition at The Design Museum, which is in collaboration with the British Fashion Council (BFC) and celebrates the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme. The show, sponsored by Alexander McQueen, focuses on the work in the early careers of design talent that has been supported by the programme.

Loved this Giles Deacon suit.

Highlights include the swan dress controversially worn by Björk at the 2001 Oscars, Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey Daley outfit from his video for ‘Golden’, and Sam Smith’s inflatable latex suit by HARRI from this year’s BRIT Awards. Collections and work by JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Russell Sage, and many more.


And this ear cuff was extraordinary.

The show is great, and is on until 11 February 2024. Go see.

Design

Mary Quant at the V&A

The hot fashion ticket in London this year is the Dior exhibition at the V&A, but I when I was looking for somewhere for a Birthday treat for my Mum, the quieter and smaller Mary Quant retrospective stood out to me as the one to book.

I didn’t know much about Mary Quant – and I was really pleasantly surprised how much more to her story there was than just the famous Sixties miniskirt. In fact, the show content is broader than just that period – covering from about 1955 to 1975 – and featuring fashion, make-up – and my personal favourite, the Daisy dolls.

Quant moved into the toy market in 1973 with Daisy, the ‘best-dressed doll in the world’. This enabled the next generation to connect with her brand, buying miniature versions of the designs for the jet-setting, independent doll. The launch at the Harrogate Toy Fair featured models dancing down the catwalk wearing life-size versions of Daisy’s wardrobe.

I loved these brightly coloured swinging rain capes – which came in yellow, pale pink, hot pink and orange. I’d wear one of these now.

Quant designed a range of these bold rain capes for Alligator Rainwear in a rainbow of the season’s ‘snappiest shades’. The paired-back and fun design in showerproof cotton canvas features slash pockets, a central zip front, metal studs and Quant’s signature colour contrast top stitching at the hem. The advertising proclaimed ‘Quant girls take shelter under this swinging cape’.

And getting a glimpse behind the scenes at the creative process was great – this storyboard featuring Quant’s make up products is ace.

At the heart of this collection though, are the stories of the women who wore Quant’s clothes – which were fun, accessible and gender-boundary pushing – at a time when women couldn’t even wear trousers into a restaurant. A lot of the pieces were sourced from the public, via a call-out from the V&A last year and there’s a charming video display of personal photographs and snippets about the pieces, from people that bought them, or their families.

The exhibition runs until February next year – so there’s plenty of time to go and see it. I’d highly recommend you do 🙂

Design

McQueen

A bit late on this one, but I couldn’t let it pass. Of course I was going to go and see the film and I expected to be dazzled to see the seminal catwalk shows on the big screen. What I didn’t expect was just how brilliant, immersive and emotional the whole (almost) 2 hours would be. The footage from the Highland Rape, Voss and the Spring 1999 No 13 show are stunning. Kate Moss as a hologram, Plato’s Atlantis. I want to watch it again, right now.

Such a fierce talent.

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From the sidewalk to the catwalk The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier

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On Thursday I went to the Jean Paul Gaultier show at The Barbcian. I wasn’t really sure what to expect, although I’d heard great things, so I was really looking forward to it.

It really is an amazing exhibition of over 140 couture and ready-to-wear designs. I was so surprised at how large it was and the enormous and varied body of work on show. Starting with the Breton stripe the show is a celebration of all things Gaultier, and mannequins with projection faces bring it eerily and fantastically alive.

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The ‘Punky Cancan’ room was my favourite, with amazing tartan, camouflage and denim creations on show. The theme explores Gaultier’s take on London street culture, mixed with haute couture gowns. It was also a thrill to see outfits worn by Kylie, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Beyoncé but the iconic conical bra / corset from Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour was definitely a highlight.

The show finishes on Monday, so I’m really glad I made the effort to get there.

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